I’ll admit it. Ripping all the plastic off of the bike was something I wasn’t looking forward to. I had already broken one of the small plastic push-rivets when I tried to hunt down the fuse for the blown Powerlet plug and stopped right there before I did any more damage.
Thankfully, ST-Guru Curt Gran had offered to walk us through the CORRECT procedure prior to our Fuzeblock Tech-Day. We’ll see how well this sunk in when it comes time to re-assemble the bike.
Now that we were down to the bones of the bike, install of the Fuse block(s) would be much simpler. The plan was to place 2 Fuzeblock FZ-1’s on the bike. One was going to be in the the back tail section and one in front, attached to the inside of the fairing, to the fairing pocket wall. The whole reason behind this was that, with so much dis-assembly required to get into the bike, placing one in the front and one in the back would minimize the need to rip into it again if accessories are added down the road.
For the back fuseblock power and ground were taken from the battery and we pulled the switched power off of the tail light power wire. For the front we again went to the battery for the power and ground but for our switched source we used a Quartet Harness which is under the left front body panel. Again trying to keep it straightforward and simple which always makes future troubleshooting easier.
Tip: We ALWAYS use Posi-Lock’s Posi-Tap when tapping into a wiring harness. Posi-taps make a small hole in the wires insulation and then spread the strands apart while making contact. Think of dipping your finger in water. You penetrate the surface and the water conforms around your finger. Then, if you ever remove the tap’s, you just apply a little sealant to the insulation and you’re good to go. Again, less chance of trouble caused by vibration and moisture down the road.
Since both Fuse Blocks are in place and all wires are cut to length, we make sure to wrap all of the wires going from the battery to the blocks in a sleeving. I like to put shrink-wrap tubing on both ends of the sleeving so that they don’t fray or start to slide one way or the other. This helps protect the wiring from heat and vibration which can cause you problems down the road.
Another thing that can cause you problems down the road is poor cable routing. Make sure that you run the wires in a path that won’t be stressed because of lenght, that it’s not running across any sharp edges, and that you don’t have any other hard parts that are going to come into direct contact with it. All of these issues can cause the wires to fray or break.
Now, with both blocks in place and tested it’s time to proceed with the next Accessory. We’re going to take the stock GIVI and make it more visible by adding LED lighting to it.